Nơi có đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ

Trứng vịt hai lòng đỏ bổ dưỡng và hiếm có, nhưng thực khách sẽ thấy đặc sản này ở khắp các nhà hàng tại Cao Bưu.

Bên trong một quán ăn tại Dương Châu, thành phố thuộc tỉnh Giang Tô ở miền đông Trung Quốc, bồi bàn đem đến cho Anne Ewbank, thực khách Mỹ, một đĩa trứng vịt luộc. Dường như đây là món ăn phổ biến. Nhưng khi nhìn gần hơn, Anne còn thấy từng quả trứng đều có hai lòng đỏ, thay vì một. Sáng hôm đó, cô vừa ăn điểm tâm vừa thắc mắc: Làm sao những nhà hàng bán zaocha (trà bánh buổi sáng) có thể đảm bảo về nguồn cung không giới hạn cho món trứng hai lòng đỏ?

Đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ
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Trứng vịt hai lòng đỏ là đặc sản địa phương. Ảnh: Sharyne Tu.

Sau này cô mới biết rằng những quả trứng được phục vụ cùng với canh há cảo và sandingbao (bánh hấp với măng, thịt gà và thịt heo), không phải là ngẫu nhiên mà có. Những quả trứng này đến từ thị trấn Cao Bưu gần đó, địa danh nổi tiếng với trứng vịt hai lòng đỏ.

Mặc dù thường được gọi là một vùng ngoại ô của Dương Châu, Cao Bưu có thể được coi như một thành phố với dân số gần một triệu người. Sống giữa sông, hồ và kênh đào Đại Vận Hà, người dân Cao Bưu chủ yếu sống nhờ chăn nuôi thuỷ cầm. Theo giáo sư sử học Antonia Finnane, tại Cao Bưu, người dân nuôi vịt, ăn vịt, bán và tặng vịt, đặc biệt trong những dịp lễ tết của gia đình. Khi hỷ sự hoặc nhà có thêm thành viên mới, người dân Cao Bưu thường tặng vịt như cầu chúc những điều tốt lành cho nhau.

Đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ
Đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ

Vịt Cao Bưu mái có lông màu nâu bóng mượt. Ảnh: Sipa Asia/ Alamy.

Những website du lịch Cao Bưu quảng bá rằng, ngành chăn nuôi vịt của địa phương có từ thế kỷ thứ sáu. Trải qua hàng trăm năm, người sành ăn, và không ít văn hào, thi sĩ… đã ca ngợi những quả trứng trắng xanh của giống vịt nâu Cao Bưu. Nhưng không ai rõ từ khi nào, những nông dân chăn nuôi vịt Cao Bưu có thể biến sự xuất hiện kỳ lạ của một quả trứng hai lòng đỏ thành điều chắc chắn. Trứng vịt hai lòng đỏ giàu dinh dưỡng hơn, và sự hiếm hoi khiến chúng được xem là điềm may. Hơn nữa, trứng hai lòng đỏ bao giờ cũng đắt gấp sáu đến tám lần trứng thông thường.

Những người nông dân địa phương cần mẫn chăn nuôi vịt Cao Bưu qua nhiều thế hệ để tạo ra lòng đỏ đôi. Theo nghiên cứu của Đại học Dương Châu năm 2010, một quả trứng hai lòng đỏ thường bị hỏng trước khi nở. Nếu nó nở, những con vịt sẽ bị biến dạng trầm trọng hoặc dính vào nhau. 2 – 10% trứng do những con vịt Cao Bưu đẻ ra có hai lòng đỏ.

Người nông dân có thể lập tức phát hiện ra một quả trứng hai lòng đỏ, dù lớp vỏ không khác những quả lòng đỏ đơn. Nhưng có một cách chắc chắn để họ nhìn vào trong một quả trứng mà không làm vỡ nó: Chiếu ánh sáng vào quả trứng, lòng đỏ đôi xuất hiện dưới dạng hai bóng xám.

Đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ
Đặc sản trứng hai lòng đỏ

Trước khi có trang thiết bị hiện đại hơn, người nông dân Cao Bưu sẽ soi trứng vịt bằng nến. Ngày nay những trang trại lớn dùng băng chuyền lắp đèn, và nhiều nơi đang nghiên cứu các thuật toán để áp dụng công nghệ thị giác máy tính, nhận dạng trứng hai lòng. Ảnh: Alamy.

Dù trứng có lòng đỏ đơn hay đôi, người nông dân sau đó cũng ngâm nước muối, đóng gói và gửi chúng tới các nhà hàng, quán ăn của địa phương. Trứng được luộc chín và thái lát, lòng đỏ có màu đỏ cam, đậm đà và nhiều dầu, mang vị ngọt kết hợp hoàn hảo với bánh và trà buổi sáng.

Đầu năm nay, Cao Bưu đã tổ chức lễ hội trứng vịt lòng đỏ đôi lần thứ 15. Sự kiện này từng thúc đẩy các dự án đầu tư địa phương như khai trương Bảo tàng Văn hóa Vịt Trung Quốc vào năm 2011, và những lễ hội kỷ niệm ngày càng có tiếng vang. Nếu không thể có mặt ở Cao Bưu vào dịp lễ hội tháng 4 hàng năm, bạn có thể thưởng thức đặc sản trứng vịt muối hai lòng đỏ tại nhiều quán trà, nhà hàng, quán ăn trong thị trấn.

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