Đến Luang Prabang tìm bình yên

Cố đô đất nước hoa Chăm Pa trở thành điểm thu hút du khách không chỉ nhờ vị thế chính trị – lịch sử mà còn bởi những giá trị tinh thần, văn hóa đặc sắc giúp tâm hồn con người trở nên bình yên hơn

Tang tảng rạng đông, tôi thức dậy vác máy chạy ra khu phố chính Sisavangvong để chiêm ngưỡng nghi thức thiêng liêng của một ngày mới trên đất cố đô Luang Prabang (Lào). Tưởng là người đến sớm nhất, nhưng không, trên vỉa hè người dân và du khách đã trải chiếu, chuẩn bị trang phục và đồ lễ tự bao giờ.

Du lịch Luang Prabang
Du lịch Luang Prabang

Các nhà sư đi khất thực đã trở thành một biểu tượng của cố đô Luang Prabang

Bình minh đất Phật

Khất thực là nét văn hóa rất đặc trưng của các quốc gia theo tín ngưỡng Phật giáo. Tại Myanmar, Thái Lan hay Campuchia, du khách có thể bắt gặp cảnh những nhà sư nối hàng dài trên phố để người dân cúng dường. Thời gian khất thực không cố định nhưng thường vào đầu giờ sáng và trước 12 giờ trưa. Tất nhiên, với đất nước Triệu Voi nói chung, nhân dân thành Luang nói riêng, hoạt động này cũng không ngoại lệ và dần trở thành điểm nhấn quan trọng.

Đúng 6 giờ, trong không gian yên lặng và trong trẻo, từ xa xa, các nhà sư bắt đầu xếp thành hàng dài đi chân trần, vai khoác y, bước vào khu phố để nhận đồ dâng lễ của người dân.

Họ bước những bước chân chậm rãi, ánh mắt trầm tư, bờ vai lặng lẽ, dù rất đông nhưng không hề có tiếng động… Mọi âm thanh ồn ào trước đó đã hoàn toàn biến mất, chỉ còn lại tiếng gió, tiếng lá xào xạc và tiếng bấm máy ảnh của du khách thập phương. Cảnh tượng này sâu sắc đến mức khiến tôi cảm thấy tim mình đập nhanh hơn, vồn vã hơn vì sợ giấc mơ tuyệt đẹp ấy sẽ nhanh chóng biến mất.

Gác máy, tôi quỳ xuống bên cạnh một người dân bản địa, hai tay lấy những nắm xôi còn nóng hổi, thơm mùi nếp mới kính cẩn đặt vào thố các nhà sư. Không ai nói với ai câu gì. Tất cả diễn ra bằng hành động và ánh mắt. Các vị sư lướt qua nhẹ nhàng, thanh thoát như một lời chúc dành cho lữ khách về một cuộc sống chậm rãi và bình thản, không còn lo nghĩ tới những điều vất vả, bon chen.

Du lịch Luang Prabang
Du lịch Luang Prabang

Cầu tre bắc qua sông Nậm Khan

Câu chuyện những dòng sông

Tôi rất thích những dòng sông và những thành phố có sông chảy qua. Ở nơi đó chứa đựng biết bao câu chuyện tích lũy qua thời gian, là tinh hoa văn hóa và khí chất đặc trưng riêng cho con người nơi đó. Nếu Hà Nội thường gắn với sông Hồng, Huế với sông Hương thì Luang Prabang lại có đến những… 2 dòng sông.

Nậm Khan khiến tôi liên tưởng đến dòng sông quê nhà. Cũng uốn quanh bãi bồi, lau sậy và bụi tre như nông thôn Bắc Bộ. Vắt ngang đoạn sông gần nơi tôi ở là một chiếc cầu tre khá ọp ẹp. Vài du khách đang đứng tạo dáng. Tôi chậm rãi bước xuống, dòng nước không hung dữ mà khá yên bình nhưng tiếng tre kêu cót két, chênh vênh khiến ai đó yếu tim có phần lo lắng.

Một tấm bảng nhỏ thông báo cây cầu này chỉ tồn tại trong 6 tháng. Mùa mưa tới, nó sẽ được dỡ bỏ để tránh bị lũ cuốn đi và khi sóng yên, nước lặng dân chúng sẽ đan lại để nối đôi bờ. Tấm bảng cũng nói rằng du khách tham quan cầu hãy ủng hộ 5.000 kip (khoảng 14.000 đồng) để giúp đỡ người đan cầu có cuộc sống hạnh phúc hơn, ấm no hơn. Tại sao họ không xây cầu chắc chắn hơn? Hóa ra đây là cách nhân văn mà người ta duy trì mạch sống cho gia đình nọ.

Sông Mê Kông mang vẻ hoang dã nhưng thật bình dị. Lòng sông khá rộng, đỏ au bởi phù sa cuồn cuộn. Luang Prabang chỉ phát triển một bên sông nên từ bên phố cổ nhìn sang là bạt ngàn một màu xanh mát. Thấp thoáng vài nếp nhà mái ngói, lũ trẻ con vui đùa, ngư dân đi thuyền đánh cá hoặc phà chở người. Lá cờ Lào bay phấp phới trong gió, nổi sắc xanh giữa làn nước đỏ quạch.

Trong suốt mấy ngày rong ruổi tôi không thấy có bất kỳ cây cầu nào bắc qua Mê Kông, thậm chí là cầu tre. Khampeang – cậu bé lễ tân nhà nghỉ nói rằng Nậm Khan và Mê Kông được ví như cha và mẹ của người dân Luang Prabang. Từ xa xưa, dân chúng không đi đâu khỏi “cha mẹ” mình nên chẳng ai đặt vấn đề xây cầu. “Ở đây chúng tôi có tất cả, nếu muốn đi xa hơn thì đã có thuyền hoặc phà” – Khampeang vừa lau bàn vừa chia sẻ.

Tôi đạp xe ra bờ sông ngồi ngắm hoàng hôn. Ánh tà dương chiếu xuống lòng Mê Kông tạo thành từng vệt đỏ vàng rực rỡ. Tôi thấy lòng mình nhẹ nhõm kỳ lạ. Phải chăng người dân Luang Prabang từ nhỏ đã được sống trong môi trường thánh thiện và sự bao bọc của 2 dòng sông đã giúp tâm hồn và con người họ thanh sạch như ánh bình minh đất Phật?

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