Ghé vào xứ Quảng thăm Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng

“Ngó lên Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng.
Thương cha nhớ mẹ quá chừng bậu ơi.
Thương cha nhớ mẹ thì về.
Nhượng bằng thương kiễng nhớ quê thì đừng”
 Những câu thơ mà người dân xứ Quảng ai ai cũng phải nằm lòng. Nhắc đến Quảng Nam người ta nhớ đến một khu di tích lịch sử văn hóa – Thánh địa Mỹ Sơn đồ sộ, nguy nga, người ta nhớ đến phố cổ Hội An, trang hoàng rực rỡ và không thể không nhớ đến một Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng đượm màu buồn.
Kết quả hình ảnh cho Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng

Hòn Kẽm Ðá Dừng là thắng cảnh nổi tiếng của cả xứ Quảng Nam. Ðịa danh này từ xa xưa đã gắn liền với những câu ca buồn, gắn liền với những giai thoại về cuộc khởi nghĩa nổi tiếng của nghĩa quân Nguyễn Duy Hiệu, với bao nhiêu nỗi niềm được mất của những cảnh đời, những phận người xuôi ngược buôn bán tìm kế mưu sinh dọc mạn sông Thu Bồn, dòng sông “phù sa bên lở bên bồi, người xuôi về bến kẻ trôi lên nguồn”…

Kết quả hình ảnh cho Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng

Bây giờ đến Hòn Kẽm Ðá Dừng, người xuôi có thể đi theo hai cách. Một là cứ men theo sông Thu Bồn ngược lên, nếu tính từ nơi sông gặp biển thường phải mất một ngày đường, sáng đi chiều tới. Cách thứ hai là từ tỉnh lộ 105 đi qua địa phận huyện Quế Sơn, vượt đèo Le đến Trung Phước, và từ bến Trung Phước đi ghe vượt sông độ vài giờ nữa… Khách tham quan thường tìm về Hòn Kẽm vào những đêm trăng mùa hè. Mùa ấy dòng sông hiền lành, mềm mại như một dải lụa sáng láng dưới trăng quê.

Kết quả hình ảnh cho Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng

Nếu lựa chọn một cuộc đi như thế, du khách sẽ thường bắt đầu từ dưới chân núi Cà Tang vào khoảng 4-5 giờ chiều. Lúc ấy cả dòng sông đã dậy gió nồm nam, chân ngọn Cà Tang dần khuất vào bóng chiều, còn đỉnh thì rực ên trong nắng. Cuộc khởi hành bắt đầu trong nắng như thế và có cả gió nhẹ ở trên cao. Nhưng chỉ một lát sau ngày và đêm đã bắt đầu giao thoa, các làng xóm ven sông hắt những bóng đen lên nền trời, du khách sẽ bắt đầu có cảm giác như đi lạc vào trong huyền thoại; huyền thoại của những đêm trăng “yên ba giang thượng” đầy những ấn tượng khó quên trong đời.

Hình ảnh có liên quan

Từ năm 1986, sau khi một phần của huyện Quế Sơn được tách ra để thuộc về huyện Hiệp Ðức, Hòn Kẽm Ðá Dừng mang thêm một nhiệm vụ mới: là ranh giới của hai huyện. Cả khúc sông này đầy những bãi đá lô nhô, dòng chảy uốn khúc nhiều và dường như nước xiết hơn. Ngay tại khu vực Hòn Kẽm, dòng sông trôi giữa hai bờ vách đá dựng đứng. Dòng sông như lọt thỏm vào trong, ngày thường ít nắng, nhiều sương khói và lạnh hơn bên ngoài. Nơi đây dường như ngày đến chậm và đêm xuống thật nhanh. Hai bên vách đá, cây dại ken dày, khỉ sống thành đàn.

Hình ảnh có liên quan

Nằm ở vùng Tây Quế Sơn, mảnh đất còn lưu nhiều dấu tích của nền văn hoá Sa Huỳnh và Champa, Hòn Kẽm Ðá Dừng cũng như ngay cả con sông Thu Bồn chứa đầy truyền thuyết. Ngày xưa nơi này có tên là sông Thiêng; từ Hòn Kẽm xuôi về biển Cửa Ðại dọc theo dòng sông có khoảng trên dưới vài chục nơi thờ cúng Thiên Y Ana – nữ thần Champa. Ngay khúc sông này, đến bây giờ vẫn còn lồ lộ phiến đá ặng hàng mấy chục tấn, đứng sừng sững soi mình xuống dòng sông Thu Bồn, mang những dòng chữ Chăm khắc chạm tỉ mỉ . Rồi sẽ có nhiều cách giải thích khách nhau về sự hiện hữu của những dòng chữ bí ẩn kia, nhưng liệu giữa việc tường minh hoá nội dung ấy và việc cứ giữ đó lớp khói sương huyền hoặc, giữa nhận thức lý tính của khoa học và những xúc cảm mỹ học… cái nào sẽ cần thiết hơn! Ðôi khi đó cũng là chuyện đáng giữ của chúng ta.

Hòn Kẽm Đá Dừng như một biểu tượng khắc lên tim những con người Quảng Nam về một thời đã qua. Nếu có về xứ Quảng nhớ ghé qua thắng cảnh – địa điểm du lịch nổi tiếng này nhé^^

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